Safety and credibility of cosmetic products increasingly require not only compliance with regulatory requirements, but also objective evidence confirming their quality and claimed performance. Properly designed testing can support both product safety assessment and marketing communication. In this latest edition, we take a closer look at the “Dermatologically Tested” voluntary certification programme, proposed changes to European cosmetics legislation and specialist methods for evaluating cosmetic products.
“Dermatologically Tested” – Confirm the Safety of Your Cosmetic Product
The voluntary “Dermatologically Tested” certification programme enables manufacturers to confirm that their product has undergone appropriate dermatological testing in accordance with the requirements of the certification programme.
The certification process includes an assessment of the documentation and test results. Following a positive evaluation, the manufacturer receives the right to use the certification mark, which can be displayed on:
- product packaging,
- marketing materials,
- websites,
- consumer communications.
The possibility to place the certification mark on products packaging provides a clear indication that dermatological testing has been performed and can support consumer trust and strengthen the credibility of the manufacturer’s claims.
For consumers, it provides additional information that the product’s safety has been assessed as part of a defined testing programme. For manufacturers, it is a tool for communicating product quality and safety in a transparent way.
European Commission Proposes New Restrictions on Cosmetic Ingredients
The European Commission has published a draft amendment to the annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. The document was notified to the WTO on 8 July 2026 as G/TBT/N/EU/1219 and is currently at the consultation stage.
Comments on the proposal can be submitted until 6 September 2026, while its adoption is planned for Q4 2026.
The proposed changes include a ban on the use of selected substances, including:
- Benzophenone-1,
- Benzophenone-2,
- Basic Brown 16,
- Basic Blue 99,
- prostaglandin analogues used in eyelash and eyebrow products.
The proposal also introduces new requirements concerning CBD. A maximum concentration of 0.19% and a THC contamination limit of 2.5 ppm have been proposed.
The changes would also cover BHA, butylparaben and nano-hydroxyapatite. The proposal further provides for the removal of existing exemptions concerning mercury-containing preservatives.
It is important to note that the proposed changes are based on the latest SCCS opinions, but do not yet constitute binding legislation. The final scope of the amendments and their implementation dates will only be known once the legislative process has been completed and the relevant regulation has been published in the Official Journal of the European Union.
Tewameter® TM Nano – Objective Assessment of the Nail Plate Barrier Function
Assessing the condition of the nail plate can be an important element in substantiating the performance of products designed for nail care. One method enabling an objective assessment of its barrier function is the measurement of transepidermal water loss through the nail plate, known as TOWL (Transonychial Water Loss).
Testing performed using the Tewameter® TM Nano is based on a non-invasive measurement of the rate of water evaporation from the nail surface using open-chamber technology.
The measurement result is expressed in g/h/m² and enables quantitative assessment of changes in the barrier function of the nail plate.
The data obtained can support claims such as:
- “Reduces TOWL by an average of X%”,
- “Improves the integrity and barrier function of the nail plate.”
The use of instrumental measurements makes it possible to support subjective observations with specific, measurable data that can form the basis for product efficacy communication.
Expert Application Studies – Efficacy Assessed by Specialists
Not all cosmetic properties can be reliably assessed using standard instrumental measurements alone. For products intended for specific areas of application, application studies conducted under the supervision of qualified specialists can also play an important role.
Depending on the product category, studies may involve experts from various fields, including:
- dentists,
- ophthalmologists,
- paediatricians,
- dermatologists,
- gynaecologists,
- ENT specialists,
- trichologists,
- hairdressers,
- cosmetologists.
The scope of assessment is tailored to the specific characteristics of the product and its intended claims. It may include, among other aspects, assessment of tooth whitening efficacy using the Vita Shade Guide, reduction of dental plaque and calculus, the product’s impact on tooth sensitivity, assessment of skin and hair condition, or tolerance of the eye area.
Application studies conducted by specialists provide data supporting both product efficacy and safety assessment. They can also constitute a valuable element of product documentation and marketing communication.
HRIPT – Plan Your Testing Schedule in Advance
For dermatological studies, appropriate project planning is also important. HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) is an advanced dermatological test used to assess the safety of cosmetic products, primarily to identify potential irritant and allergic reactions.
The next planned HRIPT sessions start on:
- 31 August 2026
- 21 September 2026
Planning participation in a testing session in advance makes it easier to align the testing schedule with the planned stages of product development and market launch.
Support Your Product Quality with Reliable Testing Data
Increasing regulatory requirements and consumer expectations mean that reliable data on product safety and efficacy are becoming an increasingly important part of cosmetic product development. Certification, instrumental testing and specialist assessments allow brands to build their communication around objective results rather than manufacturers’ claims alone.
If you are planning testing for your product or would like to determine which methods are best suited to its characteristics and intended claims, contact our team.