Author: Zuzanna Kwiatkowska

Reliable confirmation of a cosmetic product’s efficacy and safety requires a properly designed testing programme. Changing environmental conditions, new product development projects and the need to substantiate product claims with reliable evidence make appropriate test planning particularly important. In this article, we take a closer look at winter skincare efficacy testing, the importance of selecting the right study population and two key elements of microbiological safety assessment.

Find J.S. Hamilton on Skinobs

J.S. Hamilton is now available on Skinobs, an international platform connecting cosmetic brands with laboratories and research partners from around the world.

Our profile provides information about our testing capabilities and services for the cosmetics industry, including efficacy and safety testing, instrumental assessments and clinical studies conducted under specialist supervision.

Our presence on this international platform makes it easier for cosmetic brands to find a research partner and explore available laboratory capabilities when planning a project and selecting methods to substantiate specific product properties.

Meet J.S. Hamilton at COSMETIC 360 in Paris

On 14-15 October 2026, J.S. Hamilton representatives will be attending COSMETIC 360 in Paris, an international event dedicated to innovation in the cosmetics and fragrance industry.

The event provides an opportunity to exchange expertise and discuss current trends, technologies and challenges in cosmetic product development. It is also a valuable setting for conversations about efficacy testing, instrumental methods and approaches to substantiating cosmetic product claims.

COSMETIC 360 will take place at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris. Schedule a meeting with members of our team by contacting us at cosm@jsh.com.pl to meet with them in person and discuss your planned research projects and potential opportunities for collaboration.

Winter Skin Testing – How Can the Efficacy of Winter Skincare Products Be Objectively Assessed?

Low temperatures, wind and dry air can negatively affect skin condition, leading to reduced hydration, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), greater roughness and impaired skin barrier function.

For cosmetic products intended for use during the winter season, it is therefore important to design studies in which the selected methods correspond to both the characteristics of the product and its intended claims.

Winter Skin Testing may include the assessment of:

• skin hydration using a Corneometer,
• skin barrier function through TEWL measurement,
• skin roughness and scaling,
• selected parameters related to skin colour and appearance.

An appropriately designed measurement panel provides objective data on product performance in areas particularly relevant to skin exposed to adverse environmental conditions.

The results can then be used to substantiate claims relating to hydration, support of the skin barrier function, or improvements in skin condition and appearance during the winter season – “For skin exposed to cold and dry conditions”.

Study Population Selection – Why Does It Matter for the Reliability of Results?

The reliability of an efficacy study depends not only on the measurement method used. The characteristics of the people participating in the study are equally important.

In human studies of cosmetic products, participants are selected according to criteria reflecting the characteristics of the product and its target group. Factors taken into account may include age, sex, skin characteristics and the presence of specific features targeted by the cosmetic product.

This approach streamlines the participant qualification process and helps establish a study population that corresponds as closely as possible to the product’s intended target group.

In clinical studies, the qualification process may include a detailed medical and dermatological interview as well as an assessment of skin condition by a dermatologist acting as the principal investigator. This allows the inclusion and exclusion criteria to be applied appropriately and helps limit factors that could affect the interpretation of study results.

Studies conducted under specialist supervision also enable more detailed characterisation of individual participants, documented in clinical observation records. Appropriate population selection is therefore one of the factors influencing the quality and usefulness of the data obtained.

Microbiological Quality and Challenge Testing – Two Different Elements of Safety Assessment

Assessing the microbiological safety of a cosmetic product requires consideration from more than one perspective. Microbiological quality testing and preservation efficacy testing answer different questions and should therefore not be treated as interchangeable methods.

What Does Microbiological Quality Testing Determine?

Microbiological quality testing assesses the microbiological status of a product at the time of analysis. It enables the determination of microbial counts and verification that the product does not contain specified microorganisms considered undesirable.

The results therefore provide information about the current microbiological quality of the cosmetic product.

What Does a Preservation Efficacy Test Assess?

A Preservation Efficacy Test (PET), also known as a Challenge Test, is used to assess the performance of the product’s preservative system.

During the test, specified test microorganisms are introduced into the product and their survival or reduction is subsequently monitored at defined time points. This makes it possible to verify whether the preservative system provides adequate protection in the event of potential microbiological contamination.

Microbiological quality testing and Challenge Testing therefore perform complementary functions. The former provides information about the microbiological quality of the product, while the latter assesses the effectiveness of its protection against microbial proliferation.

Plan Your Testing Programme Around Your Product and Its Intended Claims

The credibility of a cosmetic product is built at multiple stages – from ensuring microbiological safety and designing the study appropriately to selecting the right study population and using methods that objectively substantiate the product’s claimed performance.

A properly designed testing programme provides data that support product development and form the basis for reliable communication of its properties. It is particularly important to tailor the scope of testing to the formulation, target group, intended use and claims the manufacturer intends to communicate.

If you are planning cosmetic product testing and would like to select the scope of analyses according to the characteristics of your product and its intended claims, contact the J.S. Hamilton team using the form below.

Safety and credibility of cosmetic products increasingly require not only compliance with regulatory requirements, but also objective evidence confirming their quality and claimed performance. Properly designed testing can support both product safety assessment and marketing communication. In this latest edition, we take a closer look at the “Dermatologically Tested” voluntary certification programme, proposed changes to European cosmetics legislation and specialist methods for evaluating cosmetic products. 

“Dermatologically Tested” – Confirm the Safety of Your Cosmetic Product 

The voluntary “Dermatologically Tested” certification programme enables manufacturers to confirm that their product has undergone appropriate dermatological testing in accordance with the requirements of the certification programme. 

The certification process includes an assessment of the documentation and test results. Following a positive evaluation, the manufacturer receives the right to use the certification mark, which can be displayed on: 

• product packaging,  

• marketing materials,  

• websites,  

• consumer communications.  

The possibility to place the certification mark on products packaging provides a clear indication that dermatological testing has been performed and can support consumer trust and strengthen the credibility of the manufacturer’s claims. 

For consumers, it provides additional information that the product’s safety has been assessed as part of a defined testing programme. For manufacturers, it is a tool for communicating product quality and safety in a transparent way. 

European Commission Proposes New Restrictions on Cosmetic Ingredients 

The European Commission has published a draft amendment to the annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. The document was notified to the WTO on 8 July 2026 as G/TBT/N/EU/1219 and is currently at the consultation stage. 

Comments on the proposal can be submitted until 6 September 2026, while its adoption is planned for Q4 2026. 

The proposed changes include a ban on the use of selected substances, including: 

• Benzophenone-1,  

• Benzophenone-2,  

• Basic Brown 16,  

• Basic Blue 99,  

• prostaglandin analogues used in eyelash and eyebrow products.  

The proposal also introduces new requirements concerning CBD. A maximum concentration of 0.19% and a THC contamination limit of 2.5 ppm have been proposed. 

The changes would also cover BHA, butylparaben and nano-hydroxyapatite. The proposal further provides for the removal of existing exemptions concerning mercury-containing preservatives. 

It is important to note that the proposed changes are based on the latest SCCS opinions, but do not yet constitute binding legislation. The final scope of the amendments and their implementation dates will only be known once the legislative process has been completed and the relevant regulation has been published in the Official Journal of the European Union. 

Tewameter® TM Nano – Objective Assessment of the Nail Plate Barrier Function 

Assessing the condition of the nail plate can be an important element in substantiating the performance of products designed for nail care. One method enabling an objective assessment of its barrier function is the measurement of transepidermal water loss through the nail plate, known as TOWL (Transonychial Water Loss). 

Testing performed using the Tewameter® TM Nano is based on a non-invasive measurement of the rate of water evaporation from the nail surface using open-chamber technology. 

The measurement result is expressed in g/h/m² and enables quantitative assessment of changes in the barrier function of the nail plate. 

The data obtained can support claims such as: 

• “Reduces TOWL by an average of X%”,  

• “Improves the integrity and barrier function of the nail plate.”  

The use of instrumental measurements makes it possible to support subjective observations with specific, measurable data that can form the basis for product efficacy communication. 

Expert Application Studies – Efficacy Assessed by Specialists 

Not all cosmetic properties can be reliably assessed using standard instrumental measurements alone. For products intended for specific areas of application, application studies conducted under the supervision of qualified specialists can also play an important role. 

Depending on the product category, studies may involve experts from various fields, including: 

• dentists,  

• ophthalmologists,  

• paediatricians,  

• dermatologists,  

• gynaecologists,  

• ENT specialists,  

• trichologists,  

• hairdressers,  

• cosmetologists.  

The scope of assessment is tailored to the specific characteristics of the product and its intended claims. It may include, among other aspects, assessment of tooth whitening efficacy using the Vita Shade Guide, reduction of dental plaque and calculus, the product’s impact on tooth sensitivity, assessment of skin and hair condition, or tolerance of the eye area. 

Application studies conducted by specialists provide data supporting both product efficacy and safety assessment. They can also constitute a valuable element of product documentation and marketing communication. 

HRIPT – Plan Your Testing Schedule in Advance 

For dermatological studies, appropriate project planning is also important. HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) is an advanced dermatological test used to assess the safety of cosmetic products, primarily to identify potential irritant and allergic reactions. 

The next planned HRIPT sessions start on: 

• 31 August 2026  

• 21 September 2026  

Planning participation in a testing session in advance makes it easier to align the testing schedule with the planned stages of product development and market launch. 

Support Your Product Quality with Reliable Testing Data 

Increasing regulatory requirements and consumer expectations mean that reliable data on product safety and efficacy are becoming an increasingly important part of cosmetic product development. Certification, instrumental testing and specialist assessments allow brands to build their communication around objective results rather than manufacturers’ claims alone. 

If you are planning testing for your product or would like to determine which methods are best suited to its characteristics and intended claims, contact our team. 

“Reduces redness,” “evens out skin tone,” “brightens discolorations” – such claims are frequently found on cosmetic products today. For consumers, they serve as a guide during product selection, whereas for cosmetic manufacturers, they represent firm marketing claims that must be supported by reliable scientific evidence. The modern beauty market no longer relies solely on catchy slogans; objective evaluation of cosmetic efficacy that confirms the actual visible effects of a cosmetic product has become essential. 

This is not merely a matter of building consumer trust in a brand. It is also a mandatory obligation under regulatory requirements in the EU, as well as an expectation from supervisory authorities and conscious buyers for whom safety and efficacy are key purchasing criteria. 

Why Visual Assessment Is Not Enough: Instrumental Methods for Skin Evaluation 

Changes in skin tone are among the effects that are exceptionally difficult to assess with the naked eye alone. Visual perception is easily influenced by lighting conditions, time of day, makeup, individual observer perception, or camera settings. The same skin can look completely different in two photographs taken under varying environmental conditions. 

Therefore, an accredited testing laboratory relies on instrumental testing methods to assess product performance. These methods measure parameter changes objectively and reproducibly, generating reliable data for statistical analysis. This is particularly crucial for formulations intended to reduce erythema or brighten skin, where even subtle differences require precise measurement. 

How the Mexameter® MX18 Works in Cosmetic Efficacy Testing 

One of the most widely used technical solutions for assessing pigmentary changes is the Mexameter® MX18. This non-invasive instrumental testing method allows quantitative evaluation of melanin content and erythema levels. The instrument emits light at three specific wavelengths penetrating superficial tissue layers to calculate: 

• Melanin Index (Melanin Index) 

• Erythema Index (Erythema Index) 

Because this process is purely quantitative, the results do not depend on subjective researcher bias. Furthermore, the tests are non-invasive and painless, enabling continuous monitoring of changes during regular product use by human volunteers. 

Regulatory Requirements: CPNP, Cosmetic Safety Assessment, and EU Regulations 

Under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council and Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 establishing common criteria for the justification of claims, every marketing claim must have solid scientific evidence. Regulatory compliance mandates that manufacturers compile a complete Product Information File (PIF) prior to placing cosmetic products on the market in the EU (the European Union), alongside mandatory notification in the CPNP portal. 

A cosmetic safety assessment conducted by a qualified safety assessor requires robust scientific data. The cosmetic product must be both effective and safe for human use throughout its intended shelf life. 

Comprehensive Laboratory Testing: Microbiological, Physicochemical, and Stability Testing 

Verifying marketing claims is the final stage of cosmetic product development. Before a product can proceed to clinical evaluation or consumer perception studies on human subjects, basic analytical testing must be performed according to ISO guidelines: 

1. Microbiological Testing of Cosmetics
   Verifies microbiological purity and ensures no pathogenic microorganisms, pathogens, or Staphylococcus species are present in the sample. A challenge test evaluates the preservative system under controlled conditions.
2. Physicochemical Testing
   Includes core determinations such as pH, density, viscosity, organoleptic appearance, and verification of key active ingredients.
3. Stability Testing and Packaging Compatibility
   Evaluates mass behavior over predicted shelf life under specified storage conditions and verifies hydration or barrier interactions without undesirable substance migration from packaging. 

Dermatological and Application Studies: The Role of Human Volunteers 

Once microbiological purity and physicochemical parameters are verified with positive results, the cosmetic product can undergo clinical evaluation with human subjects: 

1. Dermatological Testing: Patch tests performed on volunteers under dermatological supervision to rule out skin irritation or allergic reactions, ensuring basic skin tolerance. 
2. Application Studies: Practical user tests (consumer perception studies) conducted in home conditions under dermatological supervision. Volunteers use the cosmetic product according to instructions and assess subjective feelings (e.g., skin hydration, smoothness, application comfort). 

The highest level of proof for regulatory authorities is achieved when dermatological and application studies are combined with objective data obtained through instrumental testing methods and clinical trials. 

J.S. Hamilton: Comprehensive Testing and Clinical Evaluation for Cosmetic Products 

Bringing an advanced skincare product to market requires a trusted analytical partner to guide the brand through quality and safety testing. At J.S. Hamilton laboratories, our experts provide comprehensive cosmetic testing services, including: 

• Practical application studies and instrumental testing (including Mexameter® MX18 measurements), 

• Specialized microbiological and physicochemical testing, 

• Mass stability and packaging compatibility testing, 

• Full laboratory studies and clinical evaluation required to prepare the Safety Assessment report (PIF). 

Our experts assist in selecting appropriate application methods and measuring techniques tailored to planned claims. This provides cosmetics manufacturers with undeniable proof of cosmetic efficacy, ensuring full regulatory compliance to safely introduce products to the market. 

Plan Your Product Launch with Reliable Safety and Efficacy Data 

Planning to introduce a new cosmetic product and need to support your claims with measurable data? Contact our experts at J.S. Hamilton today to schedule comprehensive efficacy testing and ensure a smooth, compliant product launch. 

Summer is a particularly demanding season for cosmetic products. High temperatures, intense UV exposure, seawater and chlorinated water can all affect product performance and durability. At the same time, manufacturers must keep pace with evolving regulations governing ingredient safety and market compliance. In this article, we present the latest regulatory developments and laboratory testing methods that support the development of cosmetic products designed for summer conditions.

Omnibus VI Package – Simplifying Regulations for the Cosmetics Industry

The European Union has reached a political agreement on the Omnibus VI package, aimed at simplifying legislation covering, among other areas, cosmetics, the Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) system, and fertilisers. The proposed changes are intended to reduce administrative burdens for businesses while maintaining a high level of consumer and environmental protection.

The most significant proposed changes include:

• shorter transitional periods for withdrawing cosmetic products containing CMR substances from the market. If a company does not apply for continued use of a particular substance, it will have six months to cease placing products on the market and twelve months to remove them entirely from the market,
• the possibility of applying for a derogation from the prohibition on the use of CMR substances. Applications may be submitted within twelve months of the adoption of the new classification,
• retention of the obligation to notify the European Commission of cosmetic products containing nanomaterials, while removing the current requirement to submit notifications six months before placing products on the market,
• an extension to fifteen months for updating product labels following a more restrictive classification of a substance or mixture.

At this stage, these provisions represent a political agreement and still require formal approval by the European Parliament and the Council of the European Union.

Scientifically Proven Hair Protection Against UV Radiation, Seawater and Chlorinated Water

During the summer months, hair is exposed to numerous environmental factors that may negatively affect its condition. UV radiation, seawater and chlorinated pool water can contribute to moisture loss, structural damage, colour fading and increased hair fragility.

Laboratory testing enables manufacturers to evaluate the effectiveness of protective hair care products under conditions that closely reflect real-life use. Appropriate testing methods make it possible to verify whether a product:

• reduces UV-induced hair fibre degradation,
• protects hair colour against fading,
• helps maintain optimal moisture levels,
• improves hair condition and resilience after exposure to seawater or chlorinated water.

The resulting data provide reliable scientific evidence supporting product claims and strengthen the marketing communication of summer hair care products.

Long-Lasting Make-Up Verified with VISIA® Imaging Technology

High temperatures and increased humidity make long-lasting make-up one of the most important consumer expectations during the summer season.

Studies using the VISIA® imaging system combined with expert visual assessment based on standardised grading scales enable objective evaluation of changes in make-up appearance throughout wear.

These studies can substantiate claims related to:

• water resistance,
• rub resistance,
• make-up durability for 8, 12 or even 24 hours.

The combination of advanced imaging technology and expert evaluation provides manufacturers with reliable scientific evidence confirming product performance, particularly for make-up intended for demanding summer conditions.

UVAPF and In Vitro SPF Testing – Modern Approaches to Sun Protection Assessment

As expectations for the performance of sunscreen products continue to increase, in vitro testing methods are becoming increasingly important.

The UVAPF in vitro method, performed in accordance with ISO 24443:2021, enables reliable assessment of UVA protection without the involvement of human volunteers. The product is applied to PMMA plates and analysed spectrophotometrically before and after controlled UV exposure, allowing the determination of the UVAPF value and the critical wavelength.

Methods compliant with ISO 24443:2021 and ISO 23675:2024 offer:

• high repeatability,
• good correlation with reference methods,
• shorter testing times,
• lower costs compared with in vivo studies.

These methods provide valuable support for formulation development, quality control and the substantiation of sunscreen efficacy before products are introduced to the market.

On cosmetic packaging today, it is easy to find bold promises: “deep skin hydration,” “anti-aging effects,” “tear-free formula,” or “immediate smoothing.” The issue is that to the consumer, all these statements sound equally credible, regardless of whether they are backed by rigorous research and development or merely a marketing interpretation of a single observation. 

Yet, the difference between a thoroughly tested cosmetic product and one whose claims rely purely on subjective impressions is immense. Increasingly, this distinction determines not only consumer trust but also the safety of the manufacturer during regulatory audits or disputes with supervisory authorities. 

Marketing Claims as a Legal Responsibility in the Cosmetic Industry 

A few years ago, many brands treated marketing claims purely as creative elements of sales communication. Today, the landscape is entirely different. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, alongside Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013, explicitly dictates that any claim regarding the efficacy of a cosmetic must be supported by adequate and verifiable evidence. 

This means a manufacturer cannot use messaging that suggests a specific mechanism of action or cosmetic benefit without possessing a complete dossier that confirms its validity. This is precisely where the role of application and instrumental testing begins. A consumer may trust a skincare advertisement once; the second time, they demand hard evidence. 

Why Standard Laboratory Safety Testing is Not Enough 

This is one of the most misunderstood aspects of product development within the cosmetic industry. A manufacturer may have a perfectly engineered cream or lotion formula. They might possess excellent results from microbial safety, stability, or packaging compatibility tests. The product can be fully compliant with the law and safe for human skin. 

Yet, the company might still lack any legal basis to make specific marketing claims. Why? Because ensuring product safety and validating its real efficacy are two entirely different branches of cosmetic science. 

Standard laboratory tests answer questions such as: 

• Is the cosmetic formulations matrix stable over time? 

• Does the chemical composition remain consistent under various conditions? 

• Does the product meet basic safety requirements regarding surfactant levels or lipid stability? 

• Is it free from microbial contamination? 

In contrast, application and instrumental tests are designed to demonstrate something else entirely how the advanced cosmetic works during topical application and how it is perceived by the end-user. Therefore, a cream can be structurally flawless but lack the necessary data to claim an “appearance of wrinkles reduction,” a “soothing effect,” or an “enhance skin barrier” property. 

What Do Application Tests Really Reveal? 

In the personal care products sector, people often talk about “consumer panels,” but this term is a major oversimplification. A well-designed application study does not consist of randomly distributing a sample to a group of individuals and collecting a few casual reviews. It is a structured process based on strict methodology, standardized conditions of use, and scientifically prepared questionnaires. 

During this process, a subject receives the skincare products to use at home with detailed instructions regarding the frequency of product application and duration of the test. Upon completion, they evaluate the product based on specific questions that target the manufacturer’s intended claims. 

This step is critical because application studies evaluate both the performance and the organoleptic and sensory properties of cosmetic formulations: 

• Consistency and texture, 

• Fragrance profile and presence of any fragrance allergen, 

• Ease of topical application and absorption rate, 

• The immediate after-feel left on the skin and hair. 

This process reveals insights that no raw material data sheet can provide. Sometimes, a formula performs exceptionally well during an instrumental analysis, but users reject it because it leaves a greasy film. Conversely, a cream might offer an amazing sensory experience but fail to deliver any measurable improvements in skin parameters. Only combining these two perspectives gives formulators a realistic view of the product. 

Subjective Consumer Ratings vs. Hard Objective Data 

Can subjective consumer impressions serve as sufficient proof of an innovative cosmetic’s performance? The answer depends entirely on the nature of the claim. 

If a brand communicates that “the majority of users felt their skin was softer,” an application test provides an appropriate scientific basis. However, if the message implies a quantifiable reduction of wrinkles, an improve skin elasticity percentage, or an acne-fighting mechanism of action, it almost always requires the backing of instrumental evaluation. 

This is where many skincare companies make costly mistakes. The line between an attractive marketing phrase and a claim requiring strict substantiation is much thinner than it appears during the label design phase. 

Instrumental Testing: When a Claim Must Be Quantifiable 

Consumer demand for transparency is at an all-time high, and regulatory bodies are scrutinizing product claims with unprecedented rigor. This environment drives the need for advanced instrumental analysis. 

Unlike application tests, instrumental methods do not rely on user opinions. Instead, they utilize specialized advanced delivery systems and bioengineering instruments to measure exact physical changes. Depending on the target efficacy, these devices can measure: 

• Skin hydration levels and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) to evaluate how products protect the skin, 

• Skin stiffness and parameters that supporting skin architecture (such as collagen and elastin assessment), 

• Sebum production levels for oil control or acne-prone skin type optimization, 

• Surface roughness to document the appearance of wrinkles reduction. 

These quantifiable metrics allow manufacturers to build marketing campaigns rooted in hard facts rather than vague promises. Crucially, instrumental testing does not eliminate the need for application panels; the two methodologies are complementary. An effective cosmetic product must simultaneously deliver measurable results, protect the skin barrier, and ensure a positive consumer experience. 

Claims of High Responsibility: “Dermatologically Tested” and “Tear-Free” 

Certain messages in the personal care products and makeup products sectors carry an elevated level of regulatory risk. Claims like: 

• “Tear-free / does not sting the eyes” (crucial for baby products and lip products), 

• “Suitable for sensitive skin,” 

• “Dermatologically tested,” 

• “Formulated under ophthalmological control.” 

These phrases strongly influence purchasing decisions because they imply a higher level of safety or specialized antiinflammatory properties. Therefore, their substantiation requires specialized studies conducted under the direct supervision of qualified professionals. Depending on the cosmetic applications, this may involve an assessment by a: 

• Dermatologist, 

• Ophthalmologist, 

• Pediatrician, 

• Gynecologist (for intimate personal care products), 

• Dentist (for oral care products), 

• Trichologist or even a Veterinarian (for pet care product development). 

This is not a mere formality. A properly executed clinical evaluation by an independent laboratory protects the brand from legal liability and ensures consumer safety against issues like cumulative toxicity or hidden irritation. 

The Common Pitfall: Testing a Cosmetic Too Late in R&D 

In the cosmetic industry, we frequently observe a stressful scenario: the cosmetic product is fully manufactured, the packaging is printed, and the marketing campaign is scheduled. Only then does the regulatory team ask: “Do we have the scientific data to support these labels?” 

This is the exact moment many companies realize that their planned claims are too broad, that additional long-term skin studies are required, or that they face expensive relabeling and launch delays. 

The most successful global brands reverse this sequence. They design their claim strategy and testing protocol during the early stages of research and development (R&D), long before the final cream or lotion hits the production line. This approach allows them to optimize the use of active ingredients – such as a specific peptide, antioxidant complex, or bioactive plant extracts and adjust the formula based on hard data rather than assumptions. 

Shifting from Promises to Verifiable Evidence 

A well-designed cosmetic study is not a barrier to creative marketing. On the contrary, advancements in cosmetic science allow brands to build communication that is simultaneously powerful, highly attractive, and completely safe from a regulatory perspective. 

Most consumers will never read a 50-page laboratory report, but they will instantly notice if a product fails to deliver on its promises. In a crowded global market flooded with words like “revolutionary” and “instant,” long-term market share is won by brands that can prove their assertions. 

Secure Your Brand’s Efficacy Claims with J.S. Hamilton 

At J.S. Hamilton Laboratory, we provide comprehensive evaluation services tailored to the EU market requirements. From advanced instrumental analysis (skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle topography) to customized application panels and specialized clinical testing, we help you translate your product development vision into compliant, bulletproof documentation. 

Fill out the contact form below to connect with our regulatory and clinical testing specialists, and let’s build data-backed trust for your products together. 

Today, scientifically substantiated efficacy is one of the most important factors in building trust in a cosmetic brand. Reliable testing methods make it possible to objectively assess the impact of cosmetics on problematic skin, confirm their soothing and regenerative properties, and provide credible evidence supporting marketing claims.

In this latest overview, we take a closer look at upcoming regulatory changes and laboratory methodologies that help manufacturers demonstrate the safety and efficacy of their products.

New Rules for Detergents – What Should Manufacturers Know?

The European Union is introducing new legislation for detergents aimed at improving product safety, increasing transparency for consumers and reducing environmental impact.

One of the key measures is the implementation of the Digital Product Passport (DPP), which will be accessible via a QR code placed on product packaging. After scanning the code, consumers will gain access to detailed information regarding:

• product composition,
• instructions for use,
• safety information,
• compliance with applicable regulations,
• environmental impact.

The new regulations also support the sale of detergents in refill systems, encouraging the reuse of packaging and contributing to the reduction of plastic waste.

Additionally, specific requirements have been introduced for detergents containing microorganisms. These products will need to comply with strict safety and quality standards.

In practice, these changes mean less information printed on physical labels and greater availability of detailed product data in digital form, allowing consumers to make more informed purchasing decisions.

Colourants in Cosmetics – Why Their Identification Matters

Colourants are responsible for the appearance of many cosmetic products, including lipsticks, eyeshadows, foundations and nail polishes. Their use within the European Union is regulated by Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, which specifies which substances may be used and under what conditions.

Each authorised colourant is assigned an individual CI (Colour Index) number, for example:

• CI 77491 – Iron Oxides,
• CI 77891 – Titanium Dioxide.

Not all colourants may be used in every product category. Some are permitted only in products intended for skin application, while others can also be used in formulations designed for the eye or lip area.

These restrictions result from comprehensive safety assessments and are intended to protect consumer health. Understanding CI labelling also helps consumers better understand product composition and make more informed choices.

Comedogenic and Acnegenic Potential – How to Confirm Product Suitability for Problematic Skin

Products intended for oily, combination and acne-prone skin require particularly careful efficacy and safety assessment.

Comedogenic and acnegenic potential testing allows manufacturers to determine whether a product:

• does not promote the formation of comedones,
• does not increase the occurrence of microcysts,
• does not exacerbate acne lesions such as papules and pustules.

The assessment is conducted by experts through comparison of skin condition before and after regular product use.

The results provide strong support for claims such as:

• “non-comedogenic”,
• “non-acnegenic”.

For manufacturers, these studies also represent an effective way to strengthen product credibility and differentiate products within the highly competitive dermocosmetics market.

Anti-Acne Effect – A Comprehensive Approach to Demonstrating Efficacy

The efficacy of products intended for problematic skin should be assessed through multiple mechanisms involved in acne development.

The comprehensive Anti-Acne Effect package includes:

• sebum secretion assessment,
• porphyrin analysis associated with the activity of Cutibacterium acnes,
• expert evaluation of acne severity according to recognised dermatological scales.

This multidimensional approach provides measurable and objective evidence of product performance and generates reliable data supporting marketing claims.

The study results can significantly enhance product communication and strengthen consumer confidence in products designed for acne-prone skin.

SLS Test – Assessing Soothing and Regenerative Properties

As demand for products dedicated to sensitive skin continues to grow, there is increasing interest in methods capable of demonstrating soothing and regenerative effects.

One of the most widely recognised approaches is the SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) test, which is used to evaluate skin tolerance and the restoration of the skin barrier.

The study assesses a product’s ability to:

• reduce redness,
• soothe irritation,
• support regenerative processes,
• restore the hydrolipid barrier.

The evaluation is based on instrumental measurements, including:

• erythema assessment,
• TEWL (transepidermal water loss) measurements.

These instrumental methods provide objective and quantitative data that can substantiate claims related to soothing, regenerative and barrier-supporting properties.

Laboratory Testing as the Foundation of Credible Cosmetic Claims

Growing consumer expectations and an evolving regulatory landscape mean that cosmetic efficacy and safety must increasingly be supported by objective and measurable evidence. Laboratory testing provides the data needed not only to substantiate marketing claims, but also to build long-term trust in a brand.

In the coming years, competitive advantage will belong to manufacturers that successfully combine innovative formulations with reliable scientific evidence and transparent, fact-based communication.

The beauty industry is on the verge of significant legal shifts that force a revision of market entry strategies. On April 27, 2026, key regulatory updates were published, and on May 18, 2026, EU Regulation 2026/909 entered into force. For manufacturers and distributors, this is more than a mere formality—this new regulation significantly amends the annexes to the primary act, which is Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (the Cosmetics Regulation). 

What Changes Does the New Commission Regulation Bring? 

The new rules are the result of ongoing work by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Based on the opinions of this body, the European Commission has decided to tighten the requirements for several groups of substances. The changes in the European Union framework include both total bans and strict new concentration limits for ingredients in any cosmetic product. 

Key Substances and Groups of Ingredients: 

• Triphenyl Phosphate: ue to concerns regarding its potential endocrine-disrupting properties, this substance has been added to Annex II (the list of prohibited substances). 

• Benzyl Salicylate and Citral: These popular ingredients, often acting as a fragrance allergen, face new restrictions. Regarding the use of Benzyl Salicylate, manufacturers must precisely monitor concentrations to meet the latest safety standards. 

• Aluminum: New limits for aluminium in antiperspirants and lip products require a prompt review of existing formulations and, where necessary, the implementation of formulation changes to ensure compliance. 

• Water-Soluble Zinc Salts: Restrictions primarily affect oral hygiene products. 

• Hair Dye Ingredients: Regulations now cover substances such as HC Blue, HC Yellow, HC Red, and Hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine (including its salt form, 2HCl). 

• UV Filter: Changes impact Annex VI substances, including DHHB (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate). 

Rectification and Publication in the Official Journal 

It is vital to monitor official communications, as the Commission often publishes a rectification to the original text of the act. Such a rectification may concern transition period dates or precise concentration limits for substances like Ammonium silver zinc aluminium silicate or a specific UV filter in cosmetic products. Every legal aspect published by the European Commission must be analyzed by regulatory departments to avoid interpretation errors. 

Implementation Timeline – Dates You Cannot Miss 

The new EU rules will be implemented in stages, which is crucial for inventory management: 

1. From May 18, 2026 – New products placed on the market must comply with the conditions of use set out in the updated annexes. 

1. January 1, 2027 – The deadline for placing non-compliant products on the market (2027 is the transition cutoff). 

1. July 1, 2028 – A total ban on making products available on the market (products must be withdrawn from shelves). 

Why INCI Documentation Is Not Enough 

In light of the new safety EC mandates, regulatory bodies remind us that a supplier’s declaration is only a starting point. The actual content of silver or water-soluble zinc salts may vary in the final cosmetic product due to interactions between ingredients. Without reliable laboratory analysis of the finished goods, distributors and manufacturers risk being unable to maintain their products on the market during an inspection. 

How to Prepare for the New Regulations? 

Effective preparation requires a multi-level approach: 

• Cosmetic Ingredient Audit: Check if your products contain acetylated vetiver oil, triphenyl phosphate, or specific hair dye precursors. 

• Concentration Verification: Measure restricted substances (e.g., Citral) to ensure the final formula stays within SCCS limits. 

• Documentation Update: Every preservative, uv, and colorant must have confirmed safety under the new legal context of Annex III and Annex V. 

Verify Your Compliance with EU Regulation 2026/909 at J.S. Hamilton 

EU Regulation 2026/909 and the related amending acts from the European Union send a clear signal: the safety of using cosmetics is a priority. While changes to Annex II, Annex III, and Annex V may seem restrictive, their goal is health protection. 

At J.S. Hamilton, we support the industry comprehensively—from microscopic and electrochemical testing to determining the concentration of active substances and full documentation verification. We encourage manufacturers not to wait until the last minute. 

Do you want to ensure your products meet the new requirements? Contact our laboratory. We will help you navigate the reformulation process and confirm your cosmetics’ compliance with the latest EU standards. 

“Firmer skin,” “lift effect,” “improved elasticity” – these are among the most frequent product claims found in beauty brand communication. The issue is that to the consumer, they all sound remarkably similar, regardless of whether they are backed by a rigorous scientific study or merely a subjective consumer rating.

However, skin firmness and elasticity belong to a group of skin parameters that can be assessed in an objective, reproducible manner. This is precisely why a growing number of cosmetic manufacturers turn to instrument-based efficacy testing to confirm the efficacy of their cosmetic product with hard data rather than marketing assertions alone.

Consumers Expect More Than Just a “Promise”

The cosmetic market has evolved drastically. A few years ago, a catchy phrase on a cream or lotion bottle was often enough to drive sales. Today, consumers are much more sophisticated. They increasingly look for:

• Whether the product claims are credible,
• If the brand can scientifically substantiate the efficacy of the formula,
• What kind of clinical or laboratory evaluation backs the marketing claims,
• Whether the visible improvement is truly measurable.

This shift is particularly evident in the anti-aging and firming segment, where products target premature skin aging, loss of density, and decreased thickness. After all, skin firmness is not just a subjective sensation. It is a biological property related to the tissue’s structure, tension, and its capacity for recovery after deformation.

Why User Opinions Alone Are No Longer Enough

In a standard application test, a subject often reports that after product application, their skin feels smoother, more hydrated, and tighter. While this provides valuable marketing data, claims regarding firmness and skin elasticity increasingly require objective measurement.

According to European regulatory standards- specifically Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 – all efficacy claims must be supported by adequate and verifiable evidence. In practice, statements such as “firm the skin,” “improve elasticity,” or “anti-wrinkle action” must have a real foundation in test results. This is where advanced instrumental analysis plays a pivotal role.

Cutometer® MPA 580 — How to Measure Skin Firmness

At J.S. Hamilton Cosmetic Laboratory, we conduct skin biomechanical property assessments using the Cutometer® MPA 580. This device is the globally recognized standard test method in dermatological and scientific research to evaluate the mechanical properties of the skin.

The measurement process relies on the suction principle. Using a controlled negative pressure, the skin is gently drawn into the aperture of the probe. The instrument then performs an exact analysis of:

• The resistance of the skin to the negative pressure — which defines skin firmness,
• The ability of the skin to return to its original position — which defines skin elasticity.

The data is displayed as displacement curves over time. This methodology allows for a statistical and objective evaluation of the structural changes occurring after a regular product application.

Why Instrumental Efficacy Testing Matters Today

It translates an abstract marketing claim into a defined, verifiable parameter. From a manufacturer’s perspective, the difference is massive. A message stating “participants noticed a firmer feel” carries completely different weight than “instrumental measurement showed an immediate improvement in skin firmness by an average of X%.”

Utilizing an advanced scientific test helps brands:

• Confirm product efficacy with verifiable documentation,
• Build more authoritative product claims,
• Differentiate the cream or lotion in a highly competitive anti-aging market,
• Minimize legal risks associated with unregulated marketing communication.

Skin Responds Faster Than Many Manufacturers Assume

In lab practice, we frequently observe that even minor tweaks to a formulation such as adjusting the concentration of an active sample, protecting ingredients from oxidative stress caused by uv radiation, or adding components that moisturize and stimulate collagen and elastin repair, directly alter the mechanical response of the skin.

Consequently, instrument testing is no longer reserved just for finished cosmetic lines. It is increasingly utilized during the R&D phase to:

• Compare the firming efficacy of different prototype formulas,
• Evaluate the real, biological impact on the skin,
• Mitigate the risk of irritation while maximizing performance,
• Make data-driven product development decisions.

Build a competitive advantage based on data, not promises

Modern cosmetology is inherently data-driven. Skin firmness and elasticity are no longer abstract concepts; they are measurable parameters that can be analyzed objectively.

At J.S. Hamilton Laboratory, we support manufacturers by providing comprehensive efficacy testing via the Cutometer® MPA 580. Our validation processes allow you to measure, evaluate, and confirm your product’s true impact on the skin.

In today’s beauty industry, a cosmetic’s true competitive advantage begins where empty promises end. Ensure your documentation is flawless and build consumer trust through verified science.

Verify Your Product’s Efficacy with J.S. Hamilton

Are you ready to back up your marketing claims with undeniable, scientific data? Our team of experts is here to help you navigate the process of instrumental testing and formulation validation.

Fill out the contact form below to get in touch with our specialists. Let’s work together to establish the highest standards of credibility for your brand on the global market.

A few years ago, the term “skin microbiome” appeared primarily in the marketing campaign materials of premium brands and educational publications within the cosmetic industry. Today, this concept is rapidly moving onto the packaging of almost every cosmetic and directly into the long-term strategy for new product development.

However, global consumers are becoming increasingly sophisticated. Simply using claims like “microbiome friendly” or “supports natural skin flora” is no longer sufficient for a successful sale. The international market demands concrete analyses confirming that the finished product actually interacts with the skin flora in the declared manner. This is exactly where advanced cosmetic testing and specialized testing services become indispensable.

The Skin is Not a Sterile Surface: It is a Complex Ecosystem

For decades, testing of cosmetics and general dermatology focused almost exclusively on the skin itself: its hydration, elasticity, sebum production, or skin aging parameters. Today, any scientist in the beauty sector understands that the microbiota colonizing the stratum corneum is of equal importance.

The skin microbiome consists of millions of microorganisms, primarily bacteria, but also fungi and other microbes, living in a delicate, natural balance with the human body. This biological equilibrium helps to:

• Support the skin’s natural protective barrier,
• Limit the overgrowth of opportunistic or harmful pathogenic microorganisms,
• Maintain optimal cutaneous homeostasis and health,
• Strengthen skin resistance against external environmental factors.

A vast amount of current research indicates that disruptions in this ecosystem are linked to widespread dermatological conditions, such as hypersensitivity, severe dryness, acne, and atopic dermatitis. Consequently, formulators are shifting away from harsh chemical profiles or high surfactant levels, choosing instead to design cosmetic products that actively preserve this microbiological balance.

The Major Challenge: Providing Scientific Efficacy Verification

During the initial R&D phase, product claims usually sound incredibly promising: “supports the skin microbiome,” “protects natural bacterial flora,” or “strengthens the skin barrier.” The real issue arises when a brand needs to assess and prove these claims to regulatory authorities in the European Union.

The impact of an innovative cosmetic on the living microbiome cannot be evaluated solely based on raw material documentation or a technical data sheet. It requires rigorous, data-driven product testing showing exactly what happens on human skin after topical application of the final sample.

Skin Microbiome Analysis: A Core Pillar of Modern Testing Services

At J.S. Hamilton Cosmetic Laboratory, we conduct comprehensive skin microbiome analyses following product application by utilizing rapid, advanced biochemical testing methods. This scientific approach allows us to accurately evaluate how a cosmetic impacts the resident commensal microflora and the skin’s natural defense systems.

The test protocol includes sampling both before the product application and after a specified period of regular use, allowing for a precise, statistical assessment of microflora variations. This specialized cosmetic testing pathway is critical for:

• Sensitive skin products and dermocosmetics,
• Formulations engineered to protect or moisturize the lipid barrier,
• Anti-acne and purifying skincare products,
• Oral care or baby care items requiring stringent quality control,
• Any cosmetic product marketed as “microbiome friendly.”

Moving Beyond a Marketing Trend: Regulatory Compliance in the EU

In global cosmetic communication, it is very easy to cross the thin line between a creative message and an unverified claim. According to European Union law specifically Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 all product claims must be supported by adequate, verifiable, and scientific evidence.

If a brand communicates that its cream or lotion supports the skin microbiome, it must hold complete technical documentation and clinical analyses confirming that claim. In this context, microbiome testing services serve a dual purpose: they guide formulators during product development while mitigating legal and regulatory risks before a major commercial sale.

Furthermore, since the historic EU ban on animal testing for cosmetics came into full effect, laboratories must rely strictly on advanced clinical patch tests on human volunteers and innovative in vitro alternative testing methods to guarantee both product safety and efficacy.

What Can Be Measured Through Comprehensive Microbiome Analysis?

• The product’s impact on beneficial commensal bacteria,
• The potential inhibition or control of pathogenic flora,
• The direct interaction with the skin’s hydrolipid source barrier,
• Long-term changes after a prolonged exposure period.

Data Over Promises: Innovation Starts in the Lab

Verify Your Brand’s Microbiome Claims with J.S. Hamilton