Winter months do not slow down development processes in the cosmetics industry. On the contrary, this period is often dedicated to structuring documentation, verifying regulatory requirements and planning studies that form the foundation for safe and credible product launches. The February overview covers both key research directions and practical solutions supporting objective efficacy assessment.
COSMETOTEST 2026 – AN INTERNATIONAL PLATFORM FOR SCIENTIFIC EXCHANGE
On 18–19 March 2026, Cosmetotest 2026 will take place in Lyon and online. This international symposium is dedicated to preclinical and clinical testing in cosmetology and brings together R&D experts, scientists, research laboratories and instrumentation providers.
This year’s edition focuses on four major scientific areas:
- the influence of hormones on skin and hair,
- the role of the exposome in ageing processes,
- advanced methodologies for hydration assessment,
- the skin–brain axis as an emerging research direction.
These topics reflect the growing importance of interdisciplinary approaches combining dermatology, biochemistry, neurobiology and advanced instrumental analysis. For laboratories, this translates into the continuous development and validation of innovative efficacy assessment methods.
COSMETICBUSINESS 2025 – MARKET TRENDS AND THEIR IMPACT ON TESTING METHODOLOGIES
During CosmeticBusiness 2025 in Munich, more than 400 exhibitors from 29 countries presented innovations under the slogan “Where Beauty Starts”. Clean beauty concepts and sustainability were at the forefront of discussions.
Key trends included:
- plant-based and biotechnological ingredients,
- environmentally responsible production processes,
- reduction of plastic usage,
- refill systems and recyclable packaging solutions,
- circular economy strategies.
The rapid evolution of formulations, including powder-based cleansing products, algae-derived actives, bioengineered extracts and innovative elastin technologies, requires equally advanced and reliable testing methodologies. As product concepts evolve, laboratories must adapt their instrumental techniques and standardised protocols to ensure credible and reproducible results.
BIOREVITALISATION EFFECT – HOW TO SUBSTANTIATE A COMPLEX CLAIM?
“Biorevitalisation” is a multidimensional claim encompassing improvements in firmness, elasticity, hydration and overall skin condition. From a research perspective, such a claim requires a comprehensive and complementary measurement strategy.
A dedicated efficacy testing package for the biorevitalisation effect may include:
- volumetric and filling assessments,
- hydration level measurements,
- transepidermal water loss (TEWL) analysis,
- additional parameters supporting skin barrier evaluation.
An integrated testing approach enables a coherent interpretation of product performance and provides robust quantitative data to support marketing communication and product documentation.
IN VIVO HYDRATION ASSESSMENT – METHODOLOGY AND INSTRUMENTATION
In vivo evaluation of skin hydration is primarily based on the analysis of electrical properties of the skin and the measurement of water loss through the epidermis. Studies are conducted under strictly controlled environmental conditions, including defined humidity and temperature, standardised product dosage, a specified test area (typically the volar forearm) and placebo control.
Different instruments are used depending on the depth of measurement:
- Stratum corneum – Corneometer®, Dermalab, Epsilon (Biox), MoistureMeter SC, Skicon-200, DPM 9003,
- Epidermis – MoistureMeterEpiD,
- Dermis – MoistureMeterD.
A second widely recognised method involves indirect hydration assessment through TEWL measurement using the Tewameter TM 300. This method is particularly relevant for oil-based formulations, which may interfere with impedance-based measurements, and provides valuable information regarding overall skin barrier function.
The precise selection of measurement techniques in relation to product type and declared claim is essential to ensure repeatable and scientifically sound outcomes.
PRIMOS CR 45 – THREE-DIMENSIONAL SKIN TOPOGRAPHY ANALYSIS
The implementation of PRIMOS CR 45 technology enables advanced volumetric and structural skin assessments. This system is based on three-dimensional topography analysis and delivers both quantitative numerical data and high-resolution visual documentation of changes before and after product application.
The technology is particularly suitable for:
- lip volume enhancement evaluation,
- assessment of under-eye puffiness reduction,
- surface smoothing and wrinkle analysis.
Objective, reproducible measurements supported by visual evidence significantly strengthen efficacy documentation and provide a reliable basis for substantiating product claims.
The cosmetics industry is moving towards increasingly complex formulations, multidimensional marketing claims and heightened expectations regarding data transparency. Addressing these challenges requires the integration of advanced testing methodologies, precise instrumental analysis and standardised in vivo protocols.