May is a period of intensive development activities in the cosmetics industry and a key time for preparing products for the summer season. Increasing regulatory requirements, the growing need for reliable efficacy substantiation and constantly evolving consumer expectations make laboratory testing more important than ever. In this latest overview, we discuss major regulatory changes and solutions supporting the development of safe and effective cosmetic products.
Regulation (EU) 2026/909 – New Restrictions on Cosmetic Ingredients
One of the most significant recent regulatory developments is Regulation (EU) 2026/909, which introduces additional restrictions and bans concerning selected substances used in cosmetic products.
The new provisions include:
- a complete ban on Triphenyl Phosphate due to its potential genotoxicity,
- restrictions on Benzyl Salicylate and Citral, including concentration limits in fragrance compositions,
- new limits for aluminium compounds used in antiperspirants,
- restrictions concerning zinc salts in oral care products,
- a ban on silver-zinc zeolite, except for selected preservative applications up to 1%.
The regulation will apply from 18 May 2026. A transition period allowing the sale of non-compliant products will remain in place until early 2027, while a full prohibition on making such products available on the market will apply from mid-2028.
For manufacturers, this means the need for early verification of formulations, raw material documentation and reformulation strategies. In practice, successful implementation requires time and close cooperation between R&D, regulatory and laboratory teams.
Cosmetotest 2026 and in-cosmetics Global – Market Trends and Industry Development
Participation in industry events such as Cosmetotest and in-cosmetics Global remains an important opportunity for knowledge exchange and observation of emerging market directions.
This year’s discussions and presentations focused primarily on:
- advanced cosmetic efficacy assessment methods,
- the development of technologies supporting in vivo and instrumental testing,
- sustainability and innovative raw materials,
- cosmetic product personalisation,
- formulation safety and data transparency.
Such events not only provide insight into technological developments, but also help laboratories and manufacturers better understand evolving market expectations and consumer needs.
Water Activity (AW) – A Key Parameter for Microbiological Safety
Water activity (aw) testing is becoming an increasingly important element of cosmetic microbiological safety assessment. This parameter determines the amount of “free” water available for microbial growth, making it possible to estimate the risk of bacterial, yeast and mould proliferation.
According to ISO 29621, products with water activity below 0.75 may qualify for reduced preservative challenge testing requirements or exemption from such testing.
AW testing is particularly recommended for:
- anhydrous cosmetics,
- oil-based formulations,
- powder products,
- cosmetics with extreme pH values,
- solid bar products.
Water activity analysis represents a fast and valuable tool supporting product safety documentation and optimisation of microbiological testing strategies.
UV Hair Protection – Preparing Cosmetic Products for the Summer Season
As sun exposure increases during the summer season, so does the importance of cosmetic products designed to protect hair against UV radiation. Prolonged UV exposure may lead to colour fading, structural degradation and deterioration of overall hair condition.
Laboratory testing enables comprehensive assessment of product performance in terms of:
- hair colour protection,
- reduction of UV-induced degradation,
- improvement of hair shaft condition,
- preservation of structural hair integrity.
The results provide reliable evidence supporting protective claims and can significantly strengthen the marketing communication of seasonal hair care products.
Anti-Aging Testing – Reliable Confirmation of Cosmetic Efficacy
Anti-aging cosmetics remain one of the fastest-growing segments of the beauty industry. Due to intense market competition, manufacturers increasingly rely on laboratory data and instrumental testing results to support product communication.
Modern analytical methods make it possible to evaluate the impact of cosmetic products on:
- wrinkle reduction,
- improvement of skin firmness and elasticity,
- stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis,
- skin tone equalisation,
- reduction of hyperpigmentation,
- improvement of skin hydration,
- reinforcement of the skin barrier,
- enhancement of skin radiance.
Laboratory testing provides objective and reproducible data that reliably substantiates anti-aging claims and strengthens consumer trust.
May clearly demonstrates how dynamically modern cosmetology is evolving – both in terms of regulatory requirements and testing technologies. Growing market expectations make efficacy, safety and data transparency essential components of competitive advantage.
In the coming months, particular attention will focus on product reformulation, the development of advanced instrumental testing methods and robust substantiation of marketing claims based on reliable laboratory data.